Tuesday, August 4, 2015

Fifty Shades of French Countryside Green

Sorry about the long blog but this has been a very hectic holiday so far and hard to get time to get everything on paper.

Second day in Ibiza and off the ship around 09:00 and a drive around the Island winding up at a mixed nude (optional) beach. I decided to go……nah too much information to make public. There were three sections each with lounges and umbrellas for lease at $A14 - as I found out each, rather than together. Waiters wandered around selling water and snacks and there was a restaurant for those seeking meals. About 70% of people were nude while the rest (like me) were more modest.

Spent about two hours there until the sun disappeared and clouds rolled in. Some more driving around exploring the island which isn’t anything special and much like any other Mediterranean Island. The water was amazingly warm and more amazingly salty but hardly surprising seeing there were salt flats adjacent to the beach. But as always in this part of the world the beach was ordinary in terms of sand but the water was a beautiful blue.

Back to the city for a typical Spanish lunch of Tapas – tuna belly with tomatoes, manchego cheese ragout and beef carpaccio – very yummy indeed.

Returned the car and walked to the tender to take me back to the ship – the ship had been moved from a dock to the harbour. I arrive at the tender wharf to find many many people queued up and was told that the ride back is very rough and the boats are travelling slowly. Good move as it was incredibly choppy with many of the guests getting a little “green”.

Ibiza’s sole reason for being is tourism and nightclubs with electro-music. I certainly wouldn’t regard it as a “must see” destination but certainly worth a cruise “peek” – one of the things I certainly like about cruises – an opportunity to “sneak peek”.

I had a booking to go to the Italian Tuscany Grill but enjoyed the French Restaurant so much that I changed booking back to that one and am sure glad I did. The food was even better than my first experience especially the Dover sole and venison – excellent. A few minutes at the Cirque du Soleil style show a drink and then some much needed (after the sun) sleep.

The cruise included an all drinks package and in my usual business analytical way I can tell you they are a LONG way in front.

Next morning I wake up in Majorca or as they spell it Mallorca which was a pleasant surprise. Shuttle bus to the city where I ask a taxi driver who was offering his touring services how much. He asks me how many people to which I reply I just need one car - $A225 – no thanks. I get into the hop-on hop-off $25 for just over an hour. I see all the highlights of this quite beautiful seaside city including the amazing Cathederal, Summer Palace of the King of Spain and a former palace used as a jail.

A few hours walking around the city with its wode streets, narrow shopping laneways and mandatory piazzas. After my palate pleasing Burger King Chilli Cheese balls I buy something moure gourmand, Balotta five year aged prosciutto being carved as we watched – supposedly the best available – certainly suggested by the price, some goat’s cheese and biscuits for what was a VERY yummy lunch in the cabin.

As I get to the cabin I get a note that was very disturbing. Not that there was some gastro going around the ship, that I didn’t mind but they had removed my bible for sanitary reasons – REALLY? Anyway as I go to get some baguette and lettuce for my lunch I notice that there is no self-service and everything is being served by the staff.

After lunch I have a long spa where I meet an Irishman who runs a bio fuel boiler company, an American school teacher and an American Banker – all quite interesting and pleasant to talk to. Back to the cabin to pack so that I can leave my luggage outside the room by 23:00 and off the Shabbat Services.

Around 25 people for Shabbat Services. A mixed bag Americans Israelis and Europeans. Pleased to see some reverse discrimination as the Siddurim had not been contacted for sanitary purposes.

Dinner in the main dining room was quite interesting as it comprised recipes from chefs who had won Top Chef, a reality Chef’s show in the USA. Probably as good a mass produced meal as one could get. A few drinks in various lounges and off to bed.

Up late for me – around 07:00 although I have been sleeping in a little throughout the cruise, and get ready to get off the ship which was a very painless exercise. A cab to the nearby hotel and off for what would be a VERY long day.

I bought a two day hop-on-hop-off bus ticket and spent the next eight hours doing the red, blue and green lines getting off firstly for a walk along Las Rambla and then to what I have always regarded as the best food markets I have been to – BY FAR. An amazing variety of, well just about everything food. Meats, poultry, fish, fruit, produce and much with the ability to buy and eat there – a must not miss of Barcelona.

Back onto the bus to the Segrada Familia (no tickets available), unsurprisingly not yet finished and the Gaudi Gardens (no tickets available). However I went to a 4D presentation on Gaudi which was good fun and interesting. Completed the circuit of what is an amazing city with just so many sights to see its almost hard to describe. Beautiful Gothic Churches, lovely national buildings and lovely residential architecture. I plan to do some more exploring tomorrow.

Barcelona is perhaps the most crowded city with tourists that I have ever been to but that said there is so much to do that it doesn’t seem physically crowded in terms of people nearby.

That night Mr Tripadvisor steered me towards what is rated the 9th best of 7000+ restaurants in Barcelona and I was not disappointed. The meal at Fulla d’Ostra was excellent. The owner is a retired Brazilian Opera Singer came to Spain at the end of his career to teach singing and always had a passion to open a restaurant. He teamed up with a Chilean Chef, Marcello and opened a 22 seat restaurant in the suburbs of Barcelona. He complained about his monthly rent of $A1600 (clearly he should never consider opening up in Sydney) a month but did say that salaries of $A1400 a month for the waitress and $A2200 a month for an assistant chef was manageable. Interestingly and a sign of the power of Tripadvisor and the internet was that 90% of his customers were tourists and not surprisingly for an Opera singer he was able to speak with each customer in their native tongue. Anyway the meal was a surprise degustation and was superb.

An hour walking around and off to bed for a very well earned (14km of walking) night sleep.

Now I have been to Spain a few but not too many times and everywhere there are museums of erotica or sex and museums to Jamon (ham). A taxi to the Rambla where it is too early in the morning for the former so I opt for the latter and it proved to be MOST interesting. The finest ham in the world is Iberico which comes from pigs raised in the Iberian part of Spain and they are turned out to pastures to fatten up on a diet of acorns. At the end of the tour there was a tasting and it was certainly easy to identify the superior Bellotta hams from the ‘simple’ Iberico ones.

A walk to the top of the Rambla to hop on the Blue Line Bus to the Gaudi Gardens where I have wised up and bought a ticket for a walk around in warm but pleasant weather. A taxi to the Joan Miro Museum which is…..closed – who closes a museum on Sunday in peak tourist season???

A quick walk down the road to cable car to take me on a scenic trip around Montjuic – mountain of the Jews, followed by a funicular back down to the port near my hotel which I now discover, having initially thought was not well situated, is right on the beach near all the action.

I stumble across a lovely beach club style restaurant with great food but more importantly attractive young ladies who come to the table to give you a ten minute shiatsu massage which was well earned and much needed.

Back to the hotel for a relatively early night as I had to get to the airport 06:00 for my flight to San Sebastian.

Next morning up on time and hit the airport around 05:45 and it is jumping, people everywhere and long queues to check in. Just to see what happens I decide to try the priority queue for my Vueling (Iberian Airlines budget operator) flight and all good where for some reason I get priority through security and priority boarding – go figure.

Quick one hour flight running one hour late and I arrive at San Sebastian airport where I try to figure out how to get to town and then get to Biarritz the next day to collect my car. If you are wondering why I need to get to Biarritz to pick up the car, that’s easy - $A1500 for 11 days if I pick up in Spain and $550 if I pick up in France. Anyway I have a brainstorm to rent a car at the airport and return to Biarritz Airport in France which works perfectly as they had a French car they wanted to get back to France. So I rented a most beautiful Mercedes for a day at a price that I would never have normally considered but it seemed just so convenient.

Into San Sebastian to my hotel. Well that would be a lie. When I looked at the hotels in San Sebastian the cheapest 3 star hotel was around $A250 so I opted for what turned out to be student accommodation at the University for $A130. Basic dormitory accommodation with a single bed. No check in till 15:00 so I head off to do some touring.

San Sebastian is a great town with a lot of charm and character – on the water, surrounded by hills with the mandatory churches atop and hillside. However this trip I discover Pintxos – think tapas set out on bar, they give you a plate and you take what you want and pay. All small bite size portions between ($A3 and $A5) such as grilled foie gras on toast, crepe filled with mushroom, beef cheeks, shrimp brochette, lamb sweetbreads, tomato mozzarella and anchovy – you got the idea. It was a quite amazing lunch for around $20 including drinks.

With a car things changed for me so I took the train tour around San Sebastian and then went all around the old part of the city, headed up to the beach resort of Jean de Luz (France) and Biarritz (both places I had been to before when playing bridge here) – something I had planned to do the next day. All of this was really tiring as evidenced by the fact that my iPhone had told me I had walked 18.5 kilometres, not to mention the fact that I had woken up at 04:30. A home style fish dinner with restaurant style prices on the water and bed in my dormitory at 10:00.

So I then cancelled my Biarritz for the next night having already been there and booked for Toulouse a day ahead of plan. This proved to be a great idea when I woke up the next morning to hear it raining. In the car and off to Bayonne Airport where I return this beautiful A Class Mercedes to get a not so beautiful Romanian Dacia (subsidiary of Renault) POS which I have named Anton. I had booked a Peugeot 308 Station Wagon and they exercised their right to the “or similar”. When I arrived to pick up the car I was met with passive resistance on every front – “monsieur you booked for 11:30 there are no cars now and we cannot guarantee the type of car” etc etc”. The manager stepped in and lo and behold he says “I have two solutions for you” they being an immediate Anton or Jeep Cherokee. I took Anton because it had an amazingly large boot which took all of my luggage. I head for Pau, Lourdes and Toulouse and seem for some reason to be trapped in one lane roads until I pull over and check to find that the Anton’s GPS is set to avoid motorways. Anyway, that fixed I get to Pau and don’t see to much there except a salad Nicoise for lunch so head off to Lourdes.

Lourdes is an amazing place. Population 15,000 – visitors per annum 6 million. It is second only to Paris in terms of tourism and square metres of hotel space. I had been before but didn’t head down to the church and grotto with the holy healing water. It was interesting to see people’s level of faith as, for example, I saw +/-30 people in wheelchairs being taken to the Grotto for their Holy Water. The level of commercialisation was unpleasant with shop after shop after shop selling religious artefacts, rosary beads and bottles to be filled with Holy Water.

Off to Toulouse where I am catching up on my blog.







More soon
XD

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