Provence

Sunday morning up relatively late and head to Isle sur la Sorgue for the morning markets. Lest anybody think I am on a shopping spree I have bought almost nothing to date just enjoy walking around the old villages and looking and digesting the atmosphere. Isle sur la Sorgue is a very pretty town sitting on the Sorgue river which flows through the town. However the markets and throngs of people take away much of the beauty of the place. This market has a large antique section which is quite interesting. No bargains just nice to look at. I discovered an amazing cake/coffee shop called Jouvaud and would recommend it to anybody with a taste for cakes.

Today’s lesson from the market – I used to like hard nougat and today learned that hard nougat is in fact hard because it contains a lot of sugar whereas soft nougat is based on honey which in fact keeps it soft.

Back home for a peaceful afternoon before heading to Gordes for dinner. Gordes is probably my favourite village beautifully nestled on the side of a hill. Unbeknown to me there is a wine festival as I arrive so many many people and most of the restaurants are full. I get into La Trinquette for a very traditional and well executed French meal before heading home.

Monday morning and I leave without my money and drive back 10 minutes to get it. I then wasted ninety minutes of my time that I will never get back by going to the markets at Cavaillon – just think Parklea markets. I head to my lunch booking at La Coquillade at Gargas which turns out to be a five star hotel restaurant set among vineyards with beautiful views of the surrounds. Sitting (mercifully undercover) in the gardens and enjoying a lovely lunch was excellent compensation for my lost morning.

Driving to all of the places so far in Provence have not really exceeded 40 minutes there is a lot to do and see if one has a car.

Tuesday morning and a drive to Aix-en-Provence, one hour drive, somewhere I enjoy very much. It was market day but perhaps that it every day. About an hour walking around the markets and the old town before settling on a Creperie for lunch. Pretty much as expected especially as they tailored my crepe (spinach goats cheese, egg and chorizo) to my wishes. However the person at the table next to me was complaining about his Mexican Crepe – who orders a Mexican crepe in France anyway.

Then I did something I always do and always regret, I drove the short distance to Marseille which, apart from the absolute waterfront is not a particularly attractive place. It doesn’t have a warm welcoming feeling at all.

Back just before the butcher closed and grabbed a small precooked Moussaka and Potato Dauphinoise before a very good night’s sleep.

Wednesday morning and I had originally decided to do my long drive on Friday but changed it to Wednesday not wishing to do it the day before I left. Good call as the radio was saying that Friday would be the busiest day of the year as the French head home from their annual vacations.

First stop was Canne but the traffic was so horrendous that I just drove through and didn’t even stop. Up to Grasse where I bought another table cloth from the woman I normally visit and then walked around the old part of town before my scheduled lunch at Bastide St Antoine, probably my favourite place in the world to dine. Sitting in the gardens and enjoying an amazing meal is just so relaxing. Not to self – if they offer an aperitif of champagne on arrival don’t, contrary to my normal non-drinking, say “yes please” and enjoy a glass of rose champagne - $A38. Anyway the meal was outstanding but I suspect my enjoyment was enhanced by the surroundings.

After lunch I head to what is probably the most beautiful village I have been to – St Paul de Vence. What sets it apart from the hilly winding passageway through the fortified village is the number of non-mainstream shops and galleries which the village offers. One gallery I walked into had a lovely collection of Marc Chagall paintings – unfortunately the one I liked had possibly been sold – for just $A250,000 – damn! Seriously the galleries (maybe 20 of them) alone are worth a visit to a most beautiful place.

I head off to Biot, a town known for glass artists and after a quick look around I head back towards ‘mon gite’. Feeling a bit tired I stop in Aix for a quick Tapas dinner and home for a VERY well earned night of sleep.

Must have been tired as I slept in the next morning. I am pretty marketed out but it is such a nice way to see the villages so I head to Goult and Menerbe, the latter of which is very beautiful. Home for lunch of chicken bought at the markets (very tasty and better than the first chicken) and I head to Isle sur la Sorgue to pick up something only to find that when I got there it was pissing down with rain.

How many cups of coffee and macarons can one person have while waiting for the rain to end. Café to café and more rain. But out of everything bad comes something good…..one of the cafes has is owned by the three times winner of the French Macaron Maker of the year award – and I can see why. They were lovely so I bought some for the train ride to London on Saturday. I pick up my shopping get back to the car and I am soaked through. Oh well only water.

French Post used to offer a box with up to 7kg insured and airmailed to Australia for $A65. Went to the post office thinking I might send some things back that I won’t need in Croatia to be told ‘non monsieur, we have changed everything – now it is $A150’ WTF! – anyway I’ll leave it in the apartment in London and bring it back with me.

Back to the house to dry off and I head out to Phebus Restaurant in Joucas, a Michelin one star restaurant within a five star hotel. I really enjoyed the offering here – lots of small courses and unexpected amuse bouche from the chef. Must have enjoyed it as I left almost four hours after arriving.

Friday morning and I sleep in till 09:15 – unheard of. Head through the windiest streets to what some regard as the premiere market in Provence, Lourmarin. I don’t know about the best market but it is in beautiful surroundings and the goods being offered are of a better quality than many of the other markets. Some chicken to have with salad for lunch and back home for a relaxing afternoon before London and Croatia.

Not too much blogging as I will be working at the bridge but maybe one more.

Miss you all

XD